How does the old adage go? “Don’t reinvent the wheel?” “If it’s not broke, don’t fix it?”
Although that may apply in some situations, that never applies to beauty! Especially eyeliner.
In this session photographed in New York City by my talented friend and photographer Jorge Rivas, we explore the possibilities of angles and lines. I have always been drawn to the need of making things symmetrical and then turning around to destroy it. It’s a known issue and I’m working on it:)
Liner is one of the easiest ways to “dress up” your face. Feline flicks. avant garde geometry, dots, smokey, vertical, diagonal. The possibilities are endless. It is my belief that every woman can wear liner when the correct one is chosen for their eye shape and occasion. One thing that helps me understand trends is looking at catwalk photos.
The looks can be minimal or full on lined. That is up to you. Here are a few tricks I find help me and that will help you ease the nerves.
1.If you end up with wings that don’t match up, start by drawing two dots at the point where you want your liner to END. As you line, you will know exactly where you have to end the lines when you draw them.
2. Make sure you chose the correct product and tool for you. If you want a diffused liner like this, a soft crayon liner or shadow will do the trick. Make sure to blend into the lash line with a cotton bud for better staying power and polished feel. My favorite soft pencils are NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via De Martelli for a soft cool brown shadow and Chanel Le Crayon Yeaux in Noir for a creamy pencil that glides along the sensitive water line.
If you want a bolder and sharper look, try using a liner pen like Maybelline Line Stiletto Ultimate Precision Liquid Eyeliner. The advantage to this is that you can just use it as you would any writing utensil to create precise lines. To create more abstract lines or shapes, a gel cream liner with angled brush like Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner is perfect.
The newest trend in eyeliner is “tight lining”. This involves lining the inner rim of the eyes to create a deep and sooty look. Try using a waterproof and safe for the inner eye product like Smashbox Always Sharp Waterproof Kohl Eyeliner. Raise your chin and place your nondominant index finger above the outer corner of your eye, lifting upward. Then, holding the pencil vertically in your other hand, trace back and forth under your lashes. Go over it a few times, and stop before you reach the inner corners to ensure your eyes don’t look closed off and tiny. Repeat on the bottom rim and finish with a healthy dose of volumizing mascara.
3. Darken the roots of your top lashes. Gently pull your top lid taut by pressing one finger on the outer corner. Bury the tip of the pencil deep into your lashes at the outer corner of your eye, wiggling it back and forth as you move inward. Take your time and don’t be afraid to really mash the tip into your lashes.
If you move during the tricky lining part or make the lines too thick for your taste, don’t fret. It’s just makeup! I LOVE to clean up with Almay Oil Free Makeup Eraser Sticks. They are in a convenient cotton bud solution and will not disturb the rest of your makeup.
Now that you know the pro tips and tricks, please enjoy this session as we did while creating it!
Allison Ponthier, of RE:Quest Models NYC, has perfect skin! In order to prepare her for her closeup, I cleansed the skin with my favorite micellar water, KohGenDo Spa Water and Organic Cotton and moisturized with Kensignton Apothecary Pure Soothing Facial Oil #3.
Photography: Jorge Rivas
Hair and Makeup: Walter Fuentes
Model: Allison Ponthier at RE: Quest Models